Ironhide custom

[Elder_Predator2]

I have been doing repaints of the figures, movie and soon the ROTF lines. Here is my latest work:

The only problem is that I decided to try Testor's Enamel paints. I had been using Testor's ModelMaster Acryl Acrylics. The Enamels are acting weird and for some reason they seem tacky and scrape off easily. They were put on Last Sat.(May 18) and Sun.(May 17). I have yet to put a clear coat of any sort on the work though. Any advice will be nice. Thanks, Seth.

 

[JacktheRipper]

Why did you use enamels? They never seem to dry and remain tacky. Don't know if they can be sealed.

 

[Elder_Predator2]

I wanted to try something new. I used them on Model planes and with good results. They can be sealed with Testor's Enamel Clear Coat. They should have worked on this type of plastic, right? I mean I know they don't work on soft rubber but a hard plastic?

 

[JacktheRipper]

I've never painted models.
The funny thing about enamels is that model builders use them without any issues. However, every single person that does any action figure custom has a horror story about them.

Perhaps the models are made of a different plastic/pvc.

 

[barryo]

well, enamels are really the way to go but sometimes you have to prep the surface a bit before doing so..........like, sanding a bit or roughing it up, stripping completely depending on the paint, or just cleaning any oils-silicones that may exist on top of orig paint...........but some of the masters of paint could tell you more reasons why paint wont stick.

 

[SovereignStudio]

Enamels are horrible for any plastic that isn't rigid. They're best suited for styrene, which is what model cars and such are made of (most 1:6 action figure bodies, too). If you're painting rubber or rigid/semi-rigid vinyls, enamels should be avoided at all costs.

 

[karamazov80]

Hey, I did an Ironhide custom once! Didn't look like that, though:

"Let's kick some Decepti-chops!"

 

[Elder_Predator2]

Damn, Sounds like I'm just going to have to try and sell this guy as a display only piece and coat it with coat. Thanks a lot guys for the advice. Back to acryls I guess, just soo much money...

karamazov80: That custom looks sick bruh, keep up the work.

 

[SovereignStudio]

Damn, Sounds like I'm just going to have to try and sell this guy as a display only piece and coat it with coat. Thanks a lot guys for the advice. Back to acryls I guess, just soo much money...

karamazov80: That custom looks sick bruh, keep up the work.

You don't really have to use Acryl. Very high priced. Like, military toilet seat high. You can primer about any material and use water based acrylics. Then Dull Cote it. I've painted a ton of factory vinyl heads and that system always works.

Your figure may not be a total loss. Enamel paint isn't that tough to remove when it's not setting up properly, which is what's causing your problem. The trick is experimenting to find something that won't damage the figure. Try stripping a small area with NON-ACETONE nail polish remover. It may work. If not, try acetone nail polish remover. Just work slow, in areas that aren't readily visible. If the non-acetone stuff works, put it in a spray bottle and mist the figure, letting it soak for about five minutes and slowly take the paint off with a toothbrush.

 

[Elder_Predator2]

Thanks for your advise Sovereign. I will try that soon.

 

[barryo]

well, enamels are really the way to go but sometimes you have to prep the surface a bit before doing so..........like, sanding a bit or roughing it up, stripping completely depending on the paint, or just cleaning any oils-silicones that may exist on top of orig paint...........but some of the masters of paint could tell you more reasons why paint wont stick.

eeeek...................i meant acrylics..............
sorry peeps.............been doing a lil'......

 

[Elder_Predator2]

My last question is, if I had put a black primer, like a Lacquer, used on Megs, would the enamels have stuck better?

Barryo: Its cool, I knew what you meant completely.