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That's mighty impressive! Just how did you find boxed Famicom games at good prices anyway?

90% of my stuff I get from 'yamatoku-classic' on Ebay, they more or less have an infinite supply so just be patient, there's no need to win a bidding war except for a few high profile games, most boxed Famicom games should go for less then $10. Just for reference, I won the boxed Mario Golf and Dr Mario for 10cents each (lol), boxed Super Mario and Mario3 I got for $8 each. Mostly it's the boxed Megaman(Rockman) games that goes for high prices.

Great Stuff especially that CPS Street Fighter II Original cabinet. Can you do the Guile shadow throw on that?

Yup :D That's the sole reason I got SFII in real CPS hardware, I actually just got it 2 weeks ago and finally I got the timing down and can pull off shadow throws consistently, super stoke about that :)

Shadow throw was like a legendary myth where I grew up, kids used to talk about it but most have never seen it in action. I've only seen it once growing up; I remember there was this guy playing at some random liquor store one day and he was doing shadow throws left and right, chaining them one after another.. It was like seeing a unicorn out of blue..

I wanted to be able to do that, it was always on my bucket list ever since, so it's pretty cool that I got the timing down and can do it consistently now that I have my own game. Another cool bonus is that I actually scored a really early revision of the game where Dhalsim still has his invisibility glitch(they patched that glitch right away so only the first batch of SFII hardware produced has that glitch), so that's really cool too.

also you can get those acrylic stand or stairs so you can display more boxes rather than just displaying the side of the boxes.

yup, I need more space so I can display them with stands, I'm actually considering the 'Rose Colored Gaming' stands, those are the nicest stands for displaying retro games, but really pricey. I'll probably get a few for selected games.
 
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For those who collect disc-based games from previous generations (PS1, PS2, DC, GCN, etc.), what's your opinion on disc rot? I have a couple of PS2 games with small, white, circular discolourations on the bottom of their discs, and I'm unsure if it's disc rot or merely cosmetic imperfections related to the manufacturing process. For game collectors like me, disc rot is a frightening possibility. :panic:

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to wire an AV switcher through the Framemeister?
 
For those who collect disc-based games from previous generations (PS1, PS2, DC, GCN, etc.), what's your opinion on disc rot? I have a couple of PS2 games with small, white, circular discolourations on the bottom of their discs, and I'm unsure if it's disc rot or merely cosmetic imperfections related to the manufacturing process. For game collectors like me, disc rot is a frightening possibility. :panic:

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to wire an AV switcher through the Framemeister?


Take a bright lite like on a cell phone hold it up to your disc if it shines though its disk rot.
 
For those who collect disc-based games from previous generations (PS1, PS2, DC, GCN, etc.), what's your opinion on disc rot? I have a couple of PS2 games with small, white, circular discolourations on the bottom of their discs, and I'm unsure if it's disc rot or merely cosmetic imperfections related to the manufacturing process. For game collectors like me, disc rot is a frightening possibility. :panic:

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to wire an AV switcher through the Framemeister?

Disc rot seems inevitable in the long run. I have music CDs that are over 30 years, some have rotten away while others are still just good as new. It depends on how the discs are stored and factory pressing conditions, among many things. One of the more notorious games to suffer from this is MGS Twin Snakes, where it's difficult to find a copy without the label peeling or cracking.

As for an AV switcher trough the Framemeister, there are plenty of SCART/JP-21/Composite/Component/S-Video switchboxes out there that would do the job, you don't need to wire one internally or anything.
 
D i c k rot seems inevitable in the long run. I have music CDs that are over 30 years, some caused d i c k rot while others are still just good as new. It depends on how the d i c k s are stored and factory pressing conditions, among many things. One of the more notorious games to cause d i c k rot is MGS Twin Snakes, where it's difficult to find a copy without peeling or cracking from rot.

As for an AV switcher trough the Framemeister, there are plenty of SCART/JP-21/Composite/Component/S-Video switchboxes out there that would do the job, you don't need to wire one internally or anything.

:lecture
 
Disc rot seems inevitable in the long run. I have music CDs that are over 30 years, some have rotten away while others are still just good as new. It depends on how the discs are stored and factory pressing conditions, among many things. One of the more notorious games to suffer from this is MGS Twin Snakes, where it's difficult to find a copy without the label peeling or cracking.

My last copy of Twin Snakes had that issue. The PS2 games that I described both have a single white dot that, when held up to a strong light, hasn't completely penetrated the disc, if at all. It's just a blemish. I can't help but wonder if it's disc rot in its earliest stage or if I'm just being paranoid. I haven't played either game in a while, either.

As for an AV switcher trough the Framemeister, there are plenty of SCART/JP-21/Composite/Component/S-Video switchboxes out there that would do the job, you don't need to wire one internally or anything.

Sorry, I meant running the AV switcher through the Framemeister; I don't have the technical knowhow to do anything more than that. I wanted to know if I could connect the AV switcher that I currently have (to which all of my consoles are connected via composite cables) to the Framemeister, to upscale all of my consoles at once without having to switch composite cables whenever I want to play a different system.
 
My last copy of Twin Snakes had that issue. The PS2 games that I described both have a single white dot that, when held up to a strong light, hasn't completely penetrated the disc, if at all. It's just a blemish. I can't help but wonder if it's disc rot in its earliest stage or if I'm just being paranoid. I haven't played either game in a while, either.

If it has discoloration, then it's disc rot. You might wanna look into replacing that disc a.s.a.p. :lol

Sorry, I meant running the AV switcher through the Framemeister; I don't have the technical knowhow to do anything more than that. I wanted to know if I could connect the AV switcher that I currently have (to which all of my consoles are connected via composite cables) to the Framemeister, to upscale all of my consoles at once without having to switch composite cables whenever I want to play a different system.

There are plenty of generic, inexpensive switchers, you can even use component switchers as composite switchers and vice versa, but it's best to keep the cables as short as possible and use a powered switcher if possible.

That being said, using composite is really a bad idea, they'll look ugly no matter what. What consoles are you using trough composite? Maybe you wanna upgrade the cables?
 
Got my Master Blaster and Metal Storm toys from Mechazone :love

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For those who collect disc-based games from previous generations (PS1, PS2, DC, GCN, etc.), what's your opinion on disc rot? I have a couple of PS2 games with small, white, circular discolourations on the bottom of their discs, and I'm unsure if it's disc rot or merely cosmetic imperfections related to the manufacturing process. For game collectors like me, disc rot is a frightening possibility. :panic:

Also, does anyone know if it's possible to wire an AV switcher through the Framemeister?

Think depends where the CDs were manufactured and the condition of storage.

My Aussie DVD PS2 games generally has the milky wavy look except 1 or 2. Game still playable, however the whole disc looks crap even though i've only used it few times. Same thing happened to the cartoon DVD Box set. So I'm guessing either they came from the same factory or uses the same materials.

I always store them in plastic wraps to minimize dirt & humidity. I've had old music CD's rotting away (they start looking like black and eventually become transparent) stored in cabinets for long time (not dirt proof or humidity controlled) without airconditioning, some molds grew and some disc rot, most are still in good condition, so i'm guessing it's probably the quality of the CD's used. Those using thicker label stickers (that feels like paint) last longer than those with bare shine look.
 
Japanese Discs on the other hand, last forever.

I guess Made In Japan is no longer a joke nowadays.
 
Got my akura for my dreamcast never saw the dreamcast run in vga it looks really nice.
 
Wow, I'm sorry for taking so long to reply. My bad. :lol

If it has discoloration, then it's disc rot. You might wanna look into replacing that disc a.s.a.p. :lol

I don't know, man.

I'm not doubting the existence of disc rot but I think the severity and pervasiveness of the issue among collectors is exaggerated and perpetuated by paranoid people like me. I mean, the games that I'm worried about were bought brand new over the last two years and, while I've heard that it can happen, I find it hard to believe that a brand new disc exhibiting a blemish or two is already rotting. In fact, I managed to easily buff out one of those blemishes with a microfibre cloth. My opinion? The rotting of games is either an altogether uncommon issue or, based on a general lack of evidence, a worry that’s been rendered disproportionate to its evidence by collectors afraid of losing their investments -- again, collectors like me.

I know I asked for your opinion but I'm trying to look at this rationally. Otherwise I'll drive myself crazy. :lol

There are plenty of generic, inexpensive switchers, you can even use component switchers as composite switchers and vice versa, but it's best to keep the cables as short as possible and use a powered switcher if possible.

That being said, using composite is really a bad idea, they'll look ugly no matter what. What consoles are you using trough composite? Maybe you wanna upgrade the cables?

I've thought about upgrading the cables but I don't want to mod any of my consoles. My N64, DC, PS2 and GC are all connected via composite.

Why do you recommend using short cables and a powered switcher?
 
Wow, I'm sorry for taking so long to reply. My bad. :lol



I don't know, man.

I'm not doubting the existence of disc rot but I think the severity and pervasiveness of the issue among collectors is exaggerated and perpetuated by paranoid people like me. I mean, the games that I'm worried about were bought brand new over the last two years and, while I've heard that it can happen, I find it hard to believe that a brand new disc exhibiting a blemish or two is already rotting. In fact, I managed to easily buff out one of those blemishes with a microfibre cloth. My opinion? The rotting of games is either an altogether uncommon issue or, based on a general lack of evidence, a worry that’s been rendered disproportionate to its evidence by collectors afraid of losing their investments -- again, collectors like me.

I know I asked for your opinion but I'm trying to look at this rationally. Otherwise I'll drive myself crazy. :lol

No, it CAN indeed happen, it's just that it's no widespread enough and mostly dependent on manufacturing/pressing conditions. Overall, it's not widespread enough to affect 99% of the discs out there. Like I said though, Twin Snakes might be some of the worst cases, where the label would peel on most American pressings. I'd say enjoy what you have and don't worry about it. At least you can make an ISO of the ones you feel like it rotting away.

I've thought about upgrading the cables but I don't want to mod any of my consoles. My N64, DC, PS2 and GC are all connected via composite.

Why do you recommend using short cables and a powered switcher?

Oh no! Stop right there! At least 3 consoles you have there does not require any mods. The PS2 can be hooked up by RGB either by SCART or JP-21, or you can use a PS2 or even PS3 component cables that can be found dirt cheap. The DC uses VGA so you''ll need something called the Toro box to and an adapter to for the Framemeister's D-Terminal. As for the Gamecube, the DOL-001 models support component cables, but the cables are extremely expensive ($200-300) so you might just be content with S-Video.

Whatever the case, the PS2 would be the cheapest to upgrade from your list of consoles. It can't be stressed enough how much you should AVOID composite at all costs- they don't carry the necessary quality to make the image even remotely good. It's akin to buying a Bugatti Veyron and using the cheapest tires you can find- you won't get a smooth ride. You already have the Rolls-Royce of upscalers, and you're missing is the cables that will output the console's full potential. A simple component cable upgrade will yield night and day results worthy of the $200+ you've already spent on the Framemeister.

As for short cables and a powered switcher, shorter cables offer less resistance and distortion and powered devices tend to be more reliable than non-powered one, since the signals are amplified by a powered device.
 
No, it CAN indeed happen, it's just that it's no widespread enough and mostly dependent on manufacturing/pressing conditions. Overall, it's not widespread enough to affect 99% of the discs out there. Like I said though, Twin Snakes might be some of the worst cases, where the label would peel on most American pressings. I'd say enjoy what you have and don't worry about it. At least you can make an ISO of the ones you feel like it rotting away.

Like I said, I don't doubt that it can happen. I was only arguing that I doubt it's as black and white as "if it has discolouration then it's disc rot." Having said that, I've seen enough evidence online to be certain that it can happen, but not enough to suggest that it's as widespread an issue as people claim it is.

Oh no! Stop right there! At least 3 consoles you have there does not require any mods. The PS2 can be hooked up by RGB either by SCART or JP-21, or you can use a PS2 or even PS3 component cables that can be found dirt cheap. The DC uses VGA so you''ll need something called the Toro box to and an adapter to for the Framemeister's D-Terminal. As for the Gamecube, the DOL-001 models support component cables, but the cables are extremely expensive ($200-300) so you might just be content with S-Video.

Whatever the case, the PS2 would be the cheapest to upgrade from your list of consoles. It can't be stressed enough how much you should AVOID composite at all costs- they don't carry the necessary quality to make the image even remotely good. It's akin to buying a Bugatti Veyron and using the cheapest tires you can find- you won't get a smooth ride. You already have the Rolls-Royce of upscalers, and you're missing is the cables that will output the console's full potential. A simple component cable upgrade will yield night and day results worthy of the $200+ you've already spent on the Framemeister.

As for short cables and a powered switcher, shorter cables offer less resistance and distortion and powered devices tend to be more reliable than non-powered one, since the signals are amplified by a powered device.

I appreciate your know-how. While I'm not exactly technologically inept, I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as I should be. After all, I've spent so much money on my gaming rig that it'd be a shame not to optimize it. I'll be looking into getting some new cables.
 
I appreciate your know-how. While I'm not exactly technologically inept, I'm not nearly as knowledgeable as I should be. After all, I've spent so much money on my gaming rig that it'd be a shame not to optimize it. I'll be looking into getting some new cables.

No problem man. Getting good picture is a complicated, hot mess and I would kill for info like these many years back so it's great to share it. I guess the cheapest route you can go is to get some PS2/PS3 Component Cables (preferably the Sony ones) and see the differences yourself, then you can decide if you want to spend the money on the gear for the other consoles.

Also, use custom profiles by FireBrandX, he does pixel perfect calibrations. All you need to do is download them, stick them in a micro SD card and load the profiles and BOOM, better colors and scaling:

https://www.firebrandx.com/framemeisterprofiles.html
 
Yeah, before you even consider using the profiles, you need to get your cables sorted out first. Firebrandx's profiles are configured for RGB (SCART or component). I'd recommend watching the My Life in Gaming YouTube channel to see which cables you need for your specific console. Although, I'd advise watching all of their "RGB Masterclass" vids in their entirety, just to help with your knowledge of the Framemeister.

Anyways, scrap the composite cables. You have a Framemeister now - settle for nothing less than component or SCART cables. It sounds daunting at first, but I was a total newb when I got into this a month ago. However, it didn't take me long to get my Framemister up and running properly with the right cables :lol.
 
My younger brother's birthday was last week, and he just wanted to get together this weekend and do some retro gaming.

Dug up all the systems we still had at our parents' place and hooked them up.

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Unfortunately we didn't have the NES (sold it to one of my cousins when we got the SNES), the SNES (don't remember what happened to it), and the Sega Genesis anymore.
 
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