MagicOfLego
Freakalicious
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2009
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Re: LES WALKER - All NEW Custom Works 2009
Some awesome work Les. Are you still selling your joker heads?
Some awesome work Les. Are you still selling your joker heads?
I hope Shawn hasn't given up on the jackets for you guys either! I think it only MAKES the figure, and hope you can still get one. I'll call and harrass him some today for you guys. I do occasionally anyway, and have been begging him to make those available to everyone. It took months for me to get mine, so maybe I can get him to loosen up for you guys again.
I think the whip maker's name is Greg Fiebach or something like that. He sells on Ebay sometimes. I'll look and see if I have his info anymore and email it to you. That and a nice gunbelt makes a difference also.
Howdy King!
OOOH, ok. No wonder you are having troubles.
Those kinds of acrylics are for canvas paint only. They have a difference polymer base, that does not adhere to plastics. They are a gummy type of paint, with their own plasticity, so they never stick to models.
What I use, the Testors brand ACRYLS, are indeed an acrylic paint, but not the same base mix as the canvas types.
Go here to order you some: TESTORS ACRYLS
They are kinda expensive for the amount you get, and they dry fast if you leave the bottles out, as I do, (Don't even ask all the pain in the butt stuff daily painting with these does to you! No bad vapors or anything, just a lot of drying up if you aren't careful!), BUT, they work great on most vinyls and plastics. Wood, and cloth and all that pourous stuff also, but there is something in them, that they call them Acrylic Enamels (not to be confused with regular, oil based Model Enamel type paint, which will NEVER cure on a vinyl-plastic surface! You'll know it, as it smells of paint thinner and chemicals and is a pain to work with, although, the metallics in that kind of paint are SUPER if you can get them to adhere!).
So, try some of the base colors, and some skin tones.
I use Burnt Umber and Sienna and almost all the skin tone shades. I mix what I need also.
There is no perfect caucasian skin basetone in a bottle. I have to mix a base of a mix of the peachy looking Skin tone and the skin tone light, and sometimes with even other colors to make for more realistic skins. I do find that their color "Leather" is a nice, rich tone for African type skins. Looks better than you might think and can be altered with other skintones to lighter and darker, so consider that also.
If you are painting to match Hot Toys muscle bodies, get a bottle of Orange Ochre also. A very small amount of that (it's a stong color!) added to a skin mix will get you that bronzy color in those rubber bodies. A HARD color to match! You can't paint the rubber though. You can mist or airbrush lightly on them, if you never touch them, but it will wipe off. So far, no good paints for the rubbers yet. Yet... But, that will help you match to the HT rubber bodies better.
Anyway, hope this helps you. Save the canvas paints for canvas art, and invest in some Testors Acryls. You'll be glad you did. And yes, they can be airbrushed, even though I don't. Just so you know. (The bottles are sized for many inexpensive airbrush kits)
Good luck.
That is very helpful Les! I myself have been looking at getting some paints to try to paint a head or two. But just a few more questions if you don't mind:
What is the best way to remove existing paint off of a head?
And do you paint/spray on a primer first prior to adding on the color paint (if so, can you recommended a primer)?
Is that done for all heads?
Is the process the same for a unpainted cast head as it is for one you stripped the paint from?
Thanks in advance!
For you Joker head people....
OK. I am offering FOUR varaints. The difference you may see between a couple of them are purely hair app and eyes or some minor detail element.
NO WAY I can paint these EXACTLY like another. No way. Just not possible.
But, I will try to adhere as much as possible to these. The ONLY variations I will allow for from head to head, is eye position. DEFAULT is straight ahead. I might do off to one side a but, left more often than right, but both are possible. ONLY when requested in an email to me, will I do extreme eye positions. I have to have a written record I can go back to, so please email me and let me know your prefs.
I CANNOT GUARANTEE HAIR SHAPE AS IT IS ALMOST ENTIRELY CHANCE EACH TIME! I can skew it some...but these are about what I can do...so please, NO HAIR SHAPE REQUESTS!
And there is time to get your eye requests to me. I will not be getting to paint these until March 28th-ish at the soonest, as I am seriously busy with other heads in the way. I will only take Joker pref requests (You can post them here of course and I will make note of them also) and make sure I have them correct until then.
Just remember, I am painting all the time, so I can't do all the messaging and emails also at one time. Just remember that and work with me. Thanks all.
Here are the first drafts... Enjoy. I did...
THE MENU:
Pencil trick1 (cleaner hair)- Pencil Trick2 (darker hair) - Party Crasher (eyes just example)- Road Duel/Interrogation - Interrogation (later beatup look)
With my old original custom in for good measure, so you can see all the heads I have painted so far....
And the singles...
Pencil Trick 1 (clean hair)
Pencil Trick 2 (darker hair variant)
Party Crasher (eyes can vary)
Road Duel/Interrogation 1
Interrogation 2 (really messed up!)
Again, I hope these look varied enough for you to easily pick from. I will not do in between versions. No time to develop that. Just these. Eyes are all that can be decided on.
If you don't pick any variation, I will just paint either Pencil Trick or Party Crasher, as a default head, with a standardized straighter eye look.
Just so you know.
More to come....LOTS more....
...and if you don't believe me...step a little closer...
Note: lighting may vary from photo to photo, so don't worry about lip color and shades so much, as they are all pretty much accurate from one to another....and from the scenes as I can discern them.
Also, please remember, I am not an airbrush artist. Everything you see painted by myself is done BY HAND, always has been, always will be, so I will try to blend as best I possibly can, but I do NOT do airbrush type blends and in EXTREME MAGNIFICATION, beyond reason, you may see brushstrokes, however minute.
Thanks for your understanding.
OOOH, ok. No wonder you are having troubles.
Those kinds of acrylics are for canvas paint only. They have a difference polymer base, that does not adhere to plastics. They are a gummy type of paint, with their own plasticity, so they never stick to models.
What I use, the Testors brand ACRYLS, are indeed an acrylic paint, but not the same base mix as the canvas types.
Go here to order you some: TESTORS ACRYLS
They are kinda expensive for the amount you get, and they dry fast if you leave the bottles out, as I do, (Don't even ask all the pain in the butt stuff daily painting with these does to you! No bad vapors or anything, just a lot of drying up if you aren't careful!), BUT, they work great on most vinyls and plastics. Wood, and cloth and all that pourous stuff also, but there is something in them, that they call them Acrylic Enamels (not to be confused with regular, oil based Model Enamel type paint, which will NEVER cure on a vinyl-plastic surface! You'll know it, as it smells of paint thinner and chemicals and is a pain to work with, although, the metallics in that kind of paint are SUPER if you can get them to adhere!).
So, try some of the base colors, and some skin tones.
I use Burnt Umber and Sienna and almost all the skin tone shades. I mix what I need also.
There is no perfect caucasian skin basetone in a bottle. I have to mix a base of a mix of the peachy looking Skin tone and the skin tone light, and sometimes with even other colors to make for more realistic skins. I do find that their color "Leather" is a nice, rich tone for African type skins. Looks better than you might think and can be altered with other skintones to lighter and darker, so consider that also.
If you are painting to match Hot Toys muscle bodies, get a bottle of Orange Ochre also. A very small amount of that (it's a stong color!) added to a skin mix will get you that bronzy color in those rubber bodies. A HARD color to match! You can't paint the rubber though. You can mist or airbrush lightly on them, if you never touch them, but it will wipe off. So far, no good paints for the rubbers yet. Yet... But, that will help you match to the HT rubber bodies better.
Anyway, hope this helps you. Save the canvas paints for canvas art, and invest in some Testors Acryls. You'll be glad you did. And yes, they can be airbrushed, even though I don't. Just so you know. (The bottles are sized for many inexpensive airbrush kits)
Good luck.
Thanks Capuchi.
JUST IN! I have to run to the hospital. Ma is having heart and breathing problems, so posting my sale is temporarily delayed.
I will still post it tonight (I JUST Finished all the damned photos!) so hang in there any of you interested.
Any prayers would be welcome. Gotta go! Be back later!
Wish us luck!
Thanks Capuchi.
JUST IN! I have to run to the hospital. Ma is having heart and breathing problems, so posting my sale is temporarily delayed.
I will still post it tonight (I JUST Finished all the damned photos!) so hang in there any of you interested.
Any prayers would be welcome. Gotta go! Be back later!
Wish us luck!
Thanks Capuchi.
JUST IN! I have to run to the hospital. Ma is having heart and breathing problems, so posting my sale is temporarily delayed.
I will still post it tonight (I JUST Finished all the damned photos!) so hang in there any of you interested.
Any prayers would be welcome. Gotta go! Be back later!
Wish us luck!
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