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cdx008

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Figure I start a new thread here for modifications to the Hot Toys BTTF2 Delorean.

I’ll start off with opening up the hood to access the circuit boards and the light “switch” for those hoping to route this switch externally. My goal is to solder a wire here to extend a switch outside of my display cabinet so the Delorean can safely sit inside an acrylic case.
 

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The hood portion can be removed via the screws under the hood and under the windshield wipers. You’d also have to pull out the front grille to access screws that hood onto the front. Remove the wiring on both sides and pull up from the back and it comes out very easily. I’ve circled the locations for all the screws. There’s a lot!
 

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You’ll notice several circuit boards and most with extra voltage out connectors. This is perfect for adding additional lighting!
 

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Here is the actual circuit board under the switch. You can very easily solder a wire here and route it outside.

As further proof this release may have been rushed, the circuit board here has a date of “2022/11/05”.
 

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I swapped the connectors around but the second wire(for headlights) is too short but can be extended if removing the glue from the wiring.
 

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Would swapping any of these around make it so the flight mode lights become the first setting?
To answer your question. Yes! Flight mode can be swapped to mode 1. Meaning you can either short the switch or keep it depressed with tape and this can work with an alternative external power switch. I still will solder a wire here to select it but I’ll keep this swapped 😁. We all only want flight mode lighting anyways!
 

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To answer your question. Yes! Flight mode can be swapped to mode 1. Meaning you can either short the switch or keep it depressed with tape and this can work with an alternative external power switch. I still will solder a wire here to select it but I’ll keep this swapped 😁. We all only want flight mode lighting anyways!
Fudge yeah!!
Thanks for having the cojones to try this out.
Now I just need to remember this thread and recreate this method whenever the hell the DeLorean hits the U.K. stores.

Dream scenario for me is that I simply feed a usb from the DeLorean to the extension cable powering my display lighting, which would all light up together (flight mode for the car) when I hit the On switch.
 
Fudge yeah!!
Thanks for having the cojones to try this out.
Now I just need to remember this thread and recreate this method whenever the hell the DeLorean hits the U.K. stores.

Dream scenario for me is that I simply feed a usb from the DeLorean to the extension cable powering my display lighting, which would all light up together (flight mode for the car) when I hit the On switch.
This is the way !!

P.S you know you can press the "Watch" button (top right of thread) and it'll be added to your Watch list (in blue menu on the top left).

Any topic I'm interested in I do this and then I pretty much only look at my watched threads.
 
Could someone let me know what diameter the holes are in the base where the supports plug in.

And how long the male ends are on the supports that plug into said holes.

Am wondering if I can do away with the stand and plug into a larger base.
 
Have some good news! Have been pretty busy so wasn’t able to get to this.

I have taken a voltmeter and tested every input/output in the few circuit boards under the hood. The USB C port output is about 5.1V which is fully expected. The outputs for LED1 is 4.88V and LED2 is 4.49V from the “power button board”. The outputs from the “ground mode” circuit is 4.34V. The output from the “flying mode” circuit is 4.11V.

This means that each board input/output are all based off the 5V and is pretty consistent and the voltage isn’t purposely lowered at any point. Every point I’ve measured was always between 4-5V and that’s perfect. So I’d have to point out that Danoby saying it’s like 2.5V isn’t accurate.

We can have all lights come on once USBC is connected! The button will be bypassed.

So in a nutshell, this means all we need to do is bypass the “button power board” and connect the power from the USB C output directly to both flight and ground circuits.

Once connected like this, all lights will be on once USBC is connected. In addition, you can use all existing wires to reroute it. Nothing to buy!

If you want to be fancy and not reuse the existing wires, you can get some JST 1.25mm micro connector plugs. They fit perfectly.
 

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Nice! Where there’s a will, there’s a way.
I’m probably going to need to see pictures of exactly what that bypass looks like or I’ll screw this up.
I expect I’m still several months away from the DeLorean landing in the U.K.
 
Nice! Where there’s a will, there’s a way.
I’m probably going to need to see pictures of exactly what that bypass looks like or I’ll screw this up.
I expect I’m still several months away from the DeLorean landing in the U.K.
Agreed, a step by step procedure with pics would be amazing !!!

"Help us cdx008 your our only hope" !!

Would love this thing to be able to light up when connected to a smart power point.
 
Started creating the jumper cables. To connect the 5V USBC out to the other boards. You only need two. One to the LED1 board and one from LED1 board to LED2.

Didn’t feel like pulling apart existing cables so I made new ones. This just took minutes. Longest time is waiting for the soldering iron to heat up!
 

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Rewiring to have always on when USBC is connected:

1. Create/buy jumper cables out of 1.25mm JST cables. I bought a pack of 30 and soldered two female cables together.
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2. Detach all three cables from where they go in the existing switch.(see next steps to see how/where)
EF6775FB-5493-411F-91A3-D378DEF17BD0.jpeg
 
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