Hot Toys Back to the Future II - DeLorean - Mods

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The U.K. finally got our stock!

HT really screwed us with that digital switch.

So, now it’s been confirmed the ‘simple mod’ would only get you half the lights on, and since I really have zero clue what I’m looking at with all these cables and boards, and have no soldering equipment, I really don’t think it’s worth the risk of trying to attempt the far more involved mod that would allow all lights to turn on via the usb input.

Even with this thread, I’m just blanking on where to even start.

Shame.

I built my own acrylic shelving cases and the front panels remove via magnetic tape, so I’ll have to just do that every time I want to power up the DeLorean and, knowing me, that means I’ll barely ever see it lit up.
 
The U.K. finally got our stock!

HT really screwed us with that digital switch.

So, now it’s been confirmed the ‘simple mod’ would only get you half the lights on, and since I really have zero clue what I’m looking at with all these cables and boards, and have no soldering equipment, I really don’t think it’s worth the risk of trying to attempt the far more involved mod that would allow all lights to turn on via the usb input.

Even with this thread, I’m just blanking on where to even start.

Shame.

I built my own acrylic shelving cases and the front panels remove via magnetic tape, so I’ll have to just do that every time I want to power up the DeLorean and, knowing me, that means I’ll barely ever see it lit up.
Partially. There is a really easy way to do this without making your cables. It’s to reuse the ones already connected to the switch. There are three. The idea was to bypass the switch and point those cables to the same locations to the light circuits. (I have another Mark 2 I’m working on so I can show pics too if you like. Though I do plan on adding real on/off switches to this one. One to power, 2nd to power on the hover lights.)

I chose to make my own cables so I can leave the original cables where they were for some reason, lol.

I sure hope hot toys corrects this on the Mark 3 because I sure as heck don’t want to yet again rip the hood open just so I can power it up
 
As much as I’d like to say that I’d like to attempt the electronic/light mods when I get mine I don’t think that I will. I really don’t want to break anything especially with it costing as much as it does.

Adding stuff like the Goodyear logos and carpeting though seems pretty straightforward.
 
Partially. There is a really easy way to do this without making your cables. It’s to reuse the ones already connected to the switch. There are three. The idea was to bypass the switch and point those cables to the same locations to the light circuits. (I have another Mark 2 I’m working on so I can show pics too if you like. Though I do plan on adding real on/off switches to this one. One to power, 2nd to power on the hover lights.)

I chose to make my own cables so I can leave the original cables where they were for some reason, lol.

I sure hope hot toys corrects this on the Mark 3 because I sure as heck don’t want to yet again rip the hood open just so I can power it up
You’re giving me hope again.
Have I screwed myself by attaching the grills already?
They're so fragile, I’d hate to have to pry them off…
 
You’re giving me hope again.
Have I screwed myself by attaching the grills already?
They're so fragile, I’d hate to have to pry them off…
After doing it multiple times when doing mods, they actually come off pretty easily from wiggling it back and forth.
 
Finally got it to a point where I am really happy with.
- Tracks painted and weather
- Train wheels painted and weather
- 1/4 mile sign complete (I used a magnet to attach to my display cabinet)
9DCFB269-850E-4ED1-AD53-869A58142DDA.jpeg
IMG_7517.jpeg
IMG_7405.jpeg
 
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In case anyone wanted to try Tom’s 3D printed wheels on their Mark 2, you will need to add these washers to increase the thickness of the included spacers meant for the Mark 1.
https://a.co/d/aqRK2jI
IMG_7588.jpeg
 
Thanks @cdx008 for this indepth tutorial! I was now successfully able to rewire my Delorean to power everything on (flight mode) with a smart plug, bypassing the button switch.

Most of my time was getting the damned hood compartment off safely, as Hot Toys had some large blobs of misplaced hot glue that was keeping it firmly stuck in place.
There was only about half the expected screws missing, only had about 6 total i had to remove, with a bunch just missing entirely. Also, the electrics were originally wired differently than your photos, and again hot glue blobs over a bunch of connections.. very sloppy.

Very happy now though to have it all functioning as expected, thanks!

Now if only i was able to acheive the same effect of all lights turning on via smart plug for my JazzInc Batmobile 2022...
 
Thanks @cdx008 for this indepth tutorial! I was now successfully able to rewire my Delorean to power everything on (flight mode) with a smart plug, bypassing the button switch.

Most of my time was getting the damned hood compartment off safely, as Hot Toys had some large blobs of misplaced hot glue that was keeping it firmly stuck in place.
There was only about half the expected screws missing, only had about 6 total i had to remove, with a bunch just missing entirely. Also, the electrics were originally wired differently than your photos, and again hot glue blobs over a bunch of connections.. very sloppy.

Very happy now though to have it all functioning as expected, thanks!

Now if only i was able to acheive the same effect of all lights turning on via smart plug for my JazzInc Batmobile 2022...
Where can I get the Circuit Board for this? Thanks in advance for the help. [email protected]
 
Where can I get the Circuit Board for this? Thanks in advance for the help. [email protected]
Oh hello there!

The circuit board is actually right under the hood.

Technically you don’t need any parts for this modification. You are able to use the cables glued to the hood to the button if you wish.

All you’re doing is routing that power wire away from the switch. This will result in flight lights being on permanently once usb c power is connected. You’ll need a new non-digital on/off switch if you still want to have controllable ground/flight lights.
 
Thanks for the information! :) One more question.... Do you know if it is possible to retrofit the BTTF 1 Car with the updated LIT Timer Panel and Dash Lights that were put into the BTTF 2 Car?
Thanks again for all the help and all the best from New Orleans!
Joe
 
Thanks for the information! :) One more question.... Do you know if it is possible to retrofit the BTTF 1 Car with the updated LIT Timer Panel and Dash Lights that were put into the BTTF 2 Car?
Thanks again for all the help and all the best from New Orleans!
Joe
It’s not impossible but the issue is less so about adding a new led circuit behind it. Taking it apart to get to it isn’t that bad. Those parts in the BTTF1 Delorean are not clear and you’ll need to either drill holes or 3D print a new clear part to get light to shine through. That’s your actual challenge.
 
I would definitely be willing to try if the Lighting Parts were available. I wonder if Hot Toys would sell that Lit Time Panel and/or the Lit Dashboard as a Part. Is it possible to buy replacement Hot Toys Parts?
 
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