Experimenting Angelus Acrylic leather paint on flaked pleather

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Super Freak
Apr 18, 2013
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Not much info about this but i have seen it discussed sparsely here so i went ahead to try it out.

Subject is a pair of old pleather ww2 german boots by Dragon. The pleather layer has been fully removed, washed and dried leaving only a thin grey fabric. loosen edges has been stiffen with superglue.

Angelus deglazer was applied with brush for full coverage. it probably isnt necessary since theres nothing to deglaze.

Angelus acrylic black is applied using a flathead brush straight out of bottle after shaken. 1st few layers are hard to apply as the fabric absorbs the paint. Becareful not to use papertowel etc to puff up the object as they will stick inside due to paint getting tru the fabric once dried.

the result below shows 7 coats, with thicker coats for last 2 coats. 7 coats for 2 boots almost used up 20ml bottle unlike hobby paint you can really use up leather paint real quick. 20ml cost $5 so it might be more economical to get a pair of new boots.

Result wasnt that great you can see it is much better on the feet as fabric is filmer and paint move around less during curing. The uppers still have fabric texture as the fabric is thinner and flows around more in the last picture. a tip maybe let the paint half cure before topping up a coat to reduce flow and allow thicker coat to build up. you can also use the brush to create some uneven wavy texture closer to leather (but still far from it).

It looks more like latex boots than leather. After 24 hours curing, the boot feels tacky but paint is cured. however the paint around the rubber sole becomes dull if you touch it. It becomes dust magnet.

i have yet ordered the acrylic finisher to see if it reduces the tackiness. i will choose satin for a start. There are 4 options matte, satin, 600 normal, high gloss. The more expensive 4 coat versions are more for anti scratch durability for shoes/jackets.

a member here went tru 7 coats on a black widow suit and another went tru 20 coats on a catwoman sleeves n boots. each coat takes time to apply and cure so by the time i reach 7th coat i just called it a day. To cover the fabric texture probably needs 15-20 coats 😂😂😂. But at least the stitchings are retained after so many coats.

result might be better if the fabric is thicker, or worse?

i will see what can be done on my medicom rocketeer jacket.

After 3 coats of Satin finisher. i think matte is the way as even satin looks shinny. Finisher is pretty wet so do thin layers and avoid build ups or else you get a milky patch. After application no longer tacky to touch. i adds a layer that hides the fabric texture more.

Hope it helps.


Medicom RAH Stormtrooper inner vinyl suit. After removing the pleather the suit has a yellow tan die to the adhesive leftovers. Used deglazer to rub the suit clean.

One coat of black followed by 1 coat of matte finisher. some spots are slightly glossier due to not able to fully remove the pleather adhesive leftovers.

did not need the finisher which added abit of gloss and stiffness but want to avoid stains on the armor and body.

Medicom Boba Fett armored vest after armor and pleather removed. Deglaser to clean the adhesive excess.

A good way to be efficient would be 1 coat of paint, followed by 1 coat of finisher as finisher seems to be thicker thus reducing paint sipping tru the fabric by adding a clear layer. The layer after the finisher seems to stay on the sirface better. I only applied finisher before the last coat so nearly spent 10ml bottle on the 1st coat... Lastly a matt finisher.

Fabric was black so harder for color to show.
Flaked jacket with black fabric. angelus satin finisher -> 3 coats of angelus brown -> angelus matte finisher. couldnt fully avoid the paint seeping tru and staining the inner fabric even with the finisher as base. also poured the paint out and let it sit for few hours to dry up before use.