1/6 Scale Blade Runner Spinner (scratchbuild)

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Marine Boy

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Rear strobe lights fitted.

spin197.jpg


Adding the remaining details to the front wheel mounts. This is the last big section still to be spray painted.

spin198.jpg


Making the floodlights. It's tricky to get them all exactly the same.

spin199.jpg
 

Marine Boy

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Front and rear floodlights done. Just to add some lenses and LEDs on the inside.

spin200.jpg


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Added more detail to the rear panel. There are a few functional buttons still to be fitted.

spin202.jpg
 

Marine Boy

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Photo etched logos added and door mirrors made.

spin203.jpg


Body is about 90% painted.

spin204.jpg


Wiring the underbody lights. There are about 70 LEDs in total.

spin205.jpg
 
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S. Griffin

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Absolutely amazing build. Maybe it's a bit too late in the game to ask this, but do you have anything planned for the open foot wells, which were an error on the Fujimi kit?
 
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Marine Boy

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Making the floodlights.

spin206.jpg


spin207.jpg


I've fitted microswitches to the rear axle, so all underbody lighting is automatically switched off, when the car is placed on the ground.

spin208.jpg
 

Marine Boy

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Absolutely amazing build. Maybe it's a bit too late in the game to ask this, but do you have anything planned for the open foot wells, which were an error on the Fujimi kit?
There will be glass panels fitted into the footwells. I will secure them with "U" channels glued all round the edge of the windows.

The Fujimi kit had these glass panels, but the interior tub was moulded solid, so you couldn't see through them. Very odd.
 

Marine Boy

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Testing the underbody lighting. The front and rear floodlights can be turned off by interior switches.

spin209.jpg


 

Marine Boy

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Fitted the switches to open the doors and tidied up the wiring for the EL panels.

spin210.jpg


The red ball is the door button.

spin211.jpg



I also tried to get the glass panels made but it was a disaster. The mould i made was hollow and consequently not strong enough. The heat and pressure caused the mould to distort and was left damaged. I think the sheet used was too thick. Next time i will try a thinner one (1mm) which should not require as much pressure. I will reshape the mould, reinforce it on the inside with fibreglass and screw it down to a sheet of plywood. Hopefully that should do it.
 
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Marine Boy

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Fitting LEDs to the roof bars. It's difficult to make the wiring as unobtrusive as possible.

spin212.jpg


Temporarily wired for show.

spin213.jpg


I'm using a small PCB removed from a bike Police siren, for the timing. Once i remove the SMDs from the board, the actual lights will be brighter.

spin214.jpg


Wired up to the PCB. I'll apply some black paint on the back of the LEDs to prevent light leakage.

 

Marine Boy

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Installed LEDs into the strobe lights. The ones on the roof bars are difficult to get working reliably, so i may opt for electronic versions instead. I still need to make it quieter and less squeaky.

 
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