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It’s not impossible but the issue is less so about adding a new led circuit behind it. Taking it apart to get to it isn’t that bad. Those parts in the BTTF1 Delorean are not clear and you’ll need to either drill holes or 3D print a new clear part to get light to shine through. That’s your actual...

Oh hello there! The circuit board is actually right under the hood. Technically you don’t need any parts for this modification. You are able to use the cables glued to the hood to the button if you wish. All you’re doing is routing that power wire away from the switch. This will result in...

Oh my gosh. This is perfection! It’s so damn spot on.

The third one being dusty is screen accurate too! 😁

In case anyone wanted to try Tom’s 3D printed wheels on their Mark 2, you will need to add these washers to increase the thickness of the included spacers meant for the Mark 1. https://a.co/d/aqRK2jI

Finally got it to a point where I am really happy with. - Tracks painted and weather - Train wheels painted and weather - 1/4 mile sign complete (I used a magnet to attach to my display cabinet)

After doing it multiple times when doing mods, they actually come off pretty easily from wiggling it back and forth.

Partially. There is a really easy way to do this without making your cables. It’s to reuse the ones already connected to the switch. There are three. The idea was to bypass the switch and point those cables to the same locations to the light circuits. (I have another Mark 2 I’m working on so I...

At Minimum if you’re showing off your Delorean’s tires in non-flight mode, definitely get the good year tire prints. Makes a big difference.

If anyone is curious, the 3D printed wheels on eBay from Tom do work on the Mark 2 but you do need to get a bunch of washers to lengthen the axle. The train wheels are made for the Mark 1 with a much different axle system. Also painted the rails as well and probably add some weather to it...

This is very useful! I had to guess by trial and error and a bit of brute force, lol. Thank you for this!

I’m guessing since this version has “adjustable” wheel positions would mean it can be adjusted to be higher and lower and thus loosing the flip-down mechanism. Hot Toys really could have done some sort of $200 accessory kit for the Mark 2 and it would’ve been an epic hit. Shipping is easy too!

I like how I started working on the train wheel part of the diorama and then the day after, Hot Toys announces it. I can’t wait though!

Small update. Figured out the issue wasn’t in the rear as the actual wire got severed from the poorly designed circuit board.

@hotdogs4humanity once again, thanks for the details and pics. I’ve been trying to figure out how to remove the back to troubleshoot an issue with the overhead lights not coming on. I’ve deduced that the circuit for that has to be in the rear. I didn’t want to force the vent cover off but...

Unfortunately you may need to get a color as close as you can and paint it entirely. I’d suggest leaving it as is since it’s not too bad. Maybe try a thin silver sharpie on it just to cover the black plastic.

I’m also loving those light up flames. Makes the display so alive!

Make sure to get the right type of connector. In my case, I soldered two “female” cables together to extend and bypass the digital switch. According to the picture from the cables I bought from Amazon, it says it’s “female”. Regardless, get the one that has a hole to stick a metal pin in 😅.

Thanks for the great response! Yep, if you follow where the wires go from the switch, it becomes pretty obvious.

Hello I took a look at my 2nd batch one and this is simply just the plastic molding where the injection was and they simply either ripped or sanded off. It’s not glue but just how plastic is made. Hope this helps.